La Apestosa, o normal y moralmente conocida como Salón Orizaba.

Fotografía: Rambo, personaje de la Apestosa. Tomada por José Luis Cuevas.

Al entrar a este recinto lo primero que percibirás sera su penetrante olor a orines y una que otra aroma propia de los ambientes en donde el alcohol corre libremente. De ahí su mote casi institucional: La apestosa.

Conocimos este pintoresco lugar después de que varios escritores y fotógrafos amigos míos, me platicaran algunas anécdotas propias de la vida en una cantina, despertando sobremanera mi curiosidad. Poco después Carlos Martínez Renteria en su sección del periódico La Jornada llamada "Salón Palacio" publicaría un gran artículo que terminaría por desechar las ultimas dudas que tenía y me haría aventurarme en lo que después calificaría como el mundo mágico terrenal urbano gore y contracultural de La Apestosa.

Sabía por las anécdotas de mis amigos que en este lugar todo valía y todo entraba, no era la clásica cantina en donde solo se daban cita intelectuales o donde solo acudían obreros cansados de la vida laboral o jóvenes presas del miedo que la ciudad provoca en busca de un ligue. En este terreno todo se fundía, todo germinaba y por tanto todos tenían acceso a el.

La primera ves que visité el Salón Orizaba constate lo anterior. Iba acompañado de dos amigas y un amigo, los cuatro éramos en ese entonces estudiantes de la carrera de Comunicación y periodismo en la UNAM muy aventurados, y nos gustaba experimentar ciertas cosas fuera de lo común. Así que sin temor ahí nos encontrábamos, ante aquella puerta de ese lugar del cual tantas cosas habíamos escuchado hablar y de las cuales seriamos, ahora, parte.

Al entrar, como lo mencione, el olor es agudo y puedes en un momento arrepentirte y dar vuelta para huir. Nosotros preferimos acostumbrarnos poco a poco, aunque pasarían horas y horas de cerveza sin que nuestro objetivo fuera logrado. En esa ocasión, nuestra "primera vez" o nuestro "desquinte" las cosas transcurrieron demasiado anormales. Fue muy grato encontrar el lugar lleno hasta el tope.

Subimos a la primera planta, y unos borrachos muy amables nos ofrecieron lugar: se ven jóvenes, estudiantes y buenas gentes, fue el pretexto que utilizaron para convencernos de aceptar su cordial invitación. Aquí todo era discusión intelectual, por lo regular en este nivel suben estudiantes, profesores, fotógrafos, periodistas, escritores, pintores, etc. Pude percibir a mi alrededor un ambiente muy distinto al de abajo, y tras cinco o seis caguamas decidí indagar en lo subterráneo, en el otro nivel.

De esa experiencia hice un gran amigo, el teporocho del lugar, quien tras invitarme un trago de su aguardiente y ver que no me abría a chupar como el decía, me tomó confianza y entablo una plática conmovedora y surrealista como la mayoría de historias que los teporochos tienden a contar. Lagrimas en los ojos, prostitutas rodeándome, un luchador intentando aplicarme una palanca al brazo, besos tiernos y sádicos, cucarachas y arañas en mi ropa, olor ardiente, cerveza, delirio y sueño es lo que viví en esa "otra planta".

Hay un ambiente conjunto, una dualidad enorme y una convivencia asombrosa, anécdotas miles, historias interminables. Esto es el gran merito de la apestosa: un lugar de convivencia en todo el esplendor de la palabra, sin prejuicios ni tapujos, en donde igual puedes encontrar un obrero, una prostituta, un fotógrafo, un estudiante, un ratero, un teporocho, un taxista. La ciudad confluye libremente en un lugar tan pequeño en donde los sueños no dejan de mostrarse.

Anécdotas Importantes de la apestosa: Hace cuatro años, en el marco del primer festival Off del Centro Histórico se efectuó un experimento cultural en el Salón Orizaba, que consistió en ofrecer un concierto de música clásica con un cuarteto de la Sinfónica Nacional (entre ellos el violinista Jaime Macías quien murió hace dos años) con rigurosos traje de etiqueta. Aquella ocasión, en palabras de Carlos Martínez Rentería, el choque fue alucinante: primero el griterío no permitía escuchar "La primavera" de Vivaldi, poco a poco una robusta muchacha, que práctica la lucha libre por las mañanas y por las noches ejerce el oficio más antiguo, comenzó a desnudarse como su única posibilidad de agradecer la música; después todos los borrachos se fueron quedando en silencio y uno a uno mandaban caguamas al cuarteto.

Hace poco "La apestosa" fue el tema ganador del Premio Internacional de Fotoperiodismo celebrado en la ciudad de Gijón, España. Las fotos fueron tomadas por un gran colega: José Luis Cuevas. Al ir a la apestosa, según palabras de Renteria, a avisarles a sus propietarios sobre dicho galardón sin mayor entusiasmo dijeron: "A ver cuando se aparece por aquí el fotógrafo ese con una foto de recuerdo".

Personajes importantes que han pisado la apestosa: William Burroughs (escritor), Jack Kerocuac (escritor), José Agustín (escritor) Manuel Blanco, Gerardo de la Torre, Gonzalo Martre, Marisa Lara y Arturo Guerrero (quienes realizaron performance alternativo en dicho lugar), Jesús Luis Benítez (escritor), Parmenides García Saldaña (escritor), El rambo (soñador extrovertido)...

Dirección: Calle Dolores, casi esquina con Victoria, Centro Histórico, atrás del metro San Juan Deletran...

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